Monday, 29 May 2017

Hunting for a nosePin in a haystack of ancient art

It was Indrani who sparked off this mad quest .

She sits in the ASI museum at Hemavathi ( AP) , a picture of regal splendour . Though lightly clothed , she does wear choice jewelry : Nupura , mekhala , kankana , keyura , kundala , hara ....and ...nothing on her well chiseled nose . 
Wait a minute ! What is a nosepin called in the devabhasha ? Nasika bhooshana ? But thats a description. Not a proper name like those above ....
A quick look around the museum hall revelas the fact that sculpted ladies of No
Nolamba vintage were not fond of ornamenting their noses ! 

What of others ? ....
Surely our Hoysala hudugis would have had fabulous nosepins to match the profuse jingle jangle of necklaces , chains ,bracelets, armbands, hipchains, earrings, tiaras, hairpins, anklets eighing them down ? 
Checked furiously . No nosepin at all ! The shilabalikas and darpanasundaris seemed to fear that that ine little nose pin would prove to be the last straw and break their bejwelled backs ....


Urely , the classy ladies down south would have beautified noses ? Else , from where could the southie maamis have taken inspiration for their Ettukkal Besaris and Bullakkus ? 
Checked out the Pallava and Chozha gentlewomen in stone and bronze .....what do you know ! No mookkutthis ! Ckean, neat, unpierced noses , all. 

 
What of the Pabdya , Vijayanagara , chera , Nayaka lasses' noses  then ? 
Madurai ...Krishnapuram ...nope . Nothing . Why , even the warrior queen Meenakshi is shown plain nosed on her wedding day ! Clearly Nosepins were a no-no or unknown .

 
Morechecking across the land ....must have seen these images hundreds of times before , without realising they never wore nosepins ! 
Gandhara , Gupta to Shunga, Shatavahana , pratihara  pala to rashtrakuta, utkal ganga , Takakkad GNga , Kakatiya , Chalukya .....no one's nose is pierced.
Harappan figures wire great hats , no nosepin . The Mohenjodaro girl would tather binge on bangles than on a measly nosepin. 
Tribal people of India and elsewhere have a long tradition of pierced noses , septum included . And till modern times , even men wore nose ornaments .
The large nose rings have a long tradition in Gharwal too.  

They must have worn it in medieval times too . But no sculptures were made of them ....
And the sculptures that were made , of devis, dasis, apsaras,matrikas,yoginis, naginis ,yakshis, rakshasis,chauribearers, dwarapalikas , queens ... none wore that little ornament. 

The nosepin ( laung, mookutthi, moogbottu ) , the nosering ( nath ) and nose pendent ( bullak ) are now considered traditional indian ornamentation and a lot of hocuspocus has been built around it being a symbol of marital bliss and auspiciousness . Pseudo scientific theories about the accupressure effect nosepins have on reproductive health are also zealously propagated. 
Yet not a whisper about its glories can be found in any local ancient literature. Or in ancient icons conjugal beatitude.
What about painted images ? 
Nose ornaments start showing up in murals only from Nayaka times , very pronounced during Marahtta rule in Thanjavur. 
In
In Mughal and Pahari paintings the very early ones do not have nosepins, but later ones show the septum drops and naths .
The single  gemmed simple nosescrew seems to have appeared on the scene only very late in the day , closer to modern times.
By the time kumpeni art  blossomed , noses of wom en got fairy buried under masses of jewels. Going the whole hog, with a vengeance . Early photographs bear testimony to the newfound fondness . 

Today , can we even imagine a utsava devi or the Bangla Durga without the great gem studded nise ornament ? When did it appear ?


 What a contrast between the Devi of yore and Devi of now ! 
Fascinating how "traditions"  begin ! 
After much searching and researching  among available literature and community  lores , it transpires that the Nose ornament is an idea that spread from outside the land , notably Persian . Its impossible  to find  a reference to it in local art before 9 th -10th CE , by which time , travel to and from the middle east had become easy and frequent .  
" Ancient Indian Costume " by Roshen Alkazi lists all articles of personal wear used from Mauryan to Gupta period , but has no mention of the nosepin. 
Though Lalitha Sahasranamam does mention a nose ornament , the hymn in the  present form , dates only from about 9 th cent . 
In some parts like Bengal , for instance , wearing a nose ornament was looked down upon by purebred hindus even upto early 29th century , as it was seen as a fashion of " outsiders" . 


By the way , when did Krishna take a liking to the nose ornament ?
Wonde why our men did not see it fit to keep  up that fashion ! 

No comments:

Post a Comment

"A Gallery of Indian Domestics"

 Having domestic help ( "Servants" ) is considered feudalistic these days and the practice lingers on only in pockets of third wor...