Thursday, 29 October 2020

Vegetarian hunt in Russia

 The World has flattened, distances have shrunk and people have migrated all over , so cultural differences are not all that big these days. Being a vegetarian was once a mighty big inconvenience when traveling overseas . It is no problem at all now as Vegetarianism is well embraced everywhere and has also grown its own sub-fads like Veganism , Ketodiets etc . Finding "rabbit food" ( as it was once trolled) is not difficult anywhere  now. 

Still , had a tiny prick of anxiety about Russia , because so little is discussed about food choices there .

A quick reading up revealed Russians are not great lovers of Vegetarian food and other than a stray potato or cabbage salad, most cafes  may not have much on offer. 

Not to panic ! Georgian cuisine to the rescue ! 


The Georgian restaurant we enjoyed eating in  , in St.Petersburg . “Phali Khinkhali” .

Its logo is a khinkali fluttering on tiny wings . Khinkali , dumplings with stuffing of choice , is the quintessential Georgian food which we never got to taste - to our eternal regret . Each meal is served course by course and portions are humongous . By the time we had munched through the starters and appetisers , we were overstuffed and had to wave away the dumplings . Had to save space for the pudding ! It happened in both the Georgian restaurants we visited, so no taste of Khinkali , sadly ! 

But plenty of other flavours and textures  to remember:

 


1.Cucumber , Onion and Tomato salad , dressed with ground walnut, lime and olive oil . ( walnuts are used extensively in everything )

2.Pkhali (minced vegetables, served moulded like colourful idlis : spinach , cabbage , beetroot ,seasoned with garlic , herbs and powdered walnut . )

3.Badrijani : grilled slices of eggplant ,covered with thick walnut-garlic paste and rolled up . Served cold with cilantro/ parsley .

4. Ajapsandali : a kind of ratatouille consisting of aubergines, tomatoes, mushroom , potatoes and red pepper, seasoned with garlic and herbs.

5. Mchadi are small, crispy toasties made of cornflour, milk and water. Served with cheese.

6. Lobio , a dip made of white beans , walnut, garlic and herbs .

7. Khachapuri : a Georgian staple , the "cheesy bread" . Something like naan/ pita filled with cheese. Some cheese is added as topping too. BTW , puri means bread in Georgia !

8. Ajika : a kind of spicy pesto made of red peppers . Goes well with the bread .

 

A mash of stewed vegetables tasted very indian. Reason : The all purpose , mixed spice powder  they use (Khmeli-Suneli) , resembles our garam masala .Ingredients : coriander, marigold, fenugreek, dill, mint, parsley .

 Desserts : 1.Baklava . Sinful , crunchy Puff pastry stuffed with pounded nuts and sugar .

2.Pelamushi : delightful pudding made of grape juice, wine and cornflour . 



Trdelnik .

The one Russian snack we tried, in a cute kiosk outside a Basilica .

A sort of funnel cake , made fresh upon order . Crisp at first bite , it loses the crunch very soon , but a treat nonetheless . The girl in the kiosk dint speak English , but the sign boards were helpful.

So what is a Trdelnik ? A hollow pastry of Czeck-Slovak origin. It which is cooked a special way , on a spit , like kebab .  The dough , cut in ribbons, is wrapped around a wooden cylinder , sprinkled with sugar and baked over open flame with frequent turning of the cylinder  . The hot pastry is  slid off the cylinder when the sugar on top caramilises  into a shiny , crisp crust . It is best eaten hot/warm  , right off the oven. The pastry  can be plain or kneaded with olives , nuts etc. Sugar is omitted if so desired. 

 


And of course , no escaping desi fare ! We certainly dint go looking for it , but just stumbled upon a cafe called “ In Jagannath We Trust “ that had , in addition to  beverages , some non-spicy , non greasy Indian foods sans onion and garlic. The picture  above shows one of the posters on the wall of the cafe. No idea what it says, though ! 

No , not run by ISKCON , but by another Vaishnava Trust  .

 

No dearth of fruits ! A local market where everything looked fresh and delicious . 

Outside one of the Cathedrals where tourists throng . 


No comments:

Post a Comment

"A Gallery of Indian Domestics"

 Having domestic help ( "Servants" ) is considered feudalistic these days and the practice lingers on only in pockets of third wor...